Visiting Burg Rheinfels: across the Rhine from Sankt Goarshausen

Look across the river from Sankt Goarshausen and you will see a long, ruined fortress spread over the hill above St. Goar. This is Burg Rheinfels, once the largest fortress on the Middle Rhine. Today it is a great place to explore, with towers to climb, huge cellars and a maze of tunnels under the walls. It makes an easy half-day trip from town.

A short history

The Counts of Katzenelnbogen built Rheinfels in the 13th century to collect tolls from ships on the river, and it soon held out against a long siege. Later the Landgraves of Hesse made it into a vast fortress, which resisted a French army in 1692. In 1797 it was handed over without a fight and blown up, and for years the ruins were used as a quarry. Even so, enough survives to show how big it once was.

Getting there

A car ferry links Sankt Goarshausen and St. Goar, with crossings every few minutes during the day. The crossing takes only a few minutes, and foot passengers pay a small fare. From the ferry landing in St. Goar, walk up through the town to the castle in about 15 to 20 minutes. The path is steep. In the main season, a small tourist train sometimes runs up from the town.

What to see

• The keep and the walls: climb up for views over the Rhine to Burg Katz and the river bend towards the Loreley.
• The great cellar: a huge vaulted hall that once stored supplies for the garrison.
• The tunnels: mine galleries run under the fortress. They were dug so defenders could blow up enemy siege works. Some are low, narrow and completely dark.
• The museum: a small museum with a model of the fortress before it was destroyed.

Opening times

The castle is usually open daily from spring to autumn, with shorter hours or limited opening in winter. It can close at short notice in bad weather, when the paths are unsafe. Check the castle’s website before you go.

Tips

• Bring a torch: a phone light works, but a small torch is better in the tunnels.
• Wear sturdy shoes: the ground is uneven, and the tunnels can be wet.
• Not for everyone: if you dislike tight spaces, skip the lowest tunnels. There is plenty to see above ground.
• Stay for lunch: there is a hotel and restaurant beside the ruins with views over the river.

Make a day of it

Combine Rheinfels with a short cruise or the Rheinsteig trail on your side of the river; see our guide to hiking at the Loreley. For other castles nearby, read the castles of the Middle Rhine, or follow our one day in Sankt Goarshausen itinerary.