Bacharach and Oberwesel: two wine towns upriver from the Loreley

A few kilometres upstream from the Loreley, on the left bank of the Rhine, are two of the most beautiful small towns in the valley. Oberwesel is known for its town walls and towers, and Bacharach for its half-timbered houses and castle youth hostel. Both are wine towns, both are easy to reach from Sankt Goarshausen, and together they make a perfect day out.

Getting there

• Ferry and train: take the car ferry from Sankt Goarshausen across to St. Goar. Regional trains run along the left bank from St. Goar to Oberwesel in a few minutes, and on to Bacharach a few minutes later.
• By boat: Rhine cruise boats stop at St. Goarshausen, Oberwesel and Bacharach in season. Sailing upstream is slower, so many people go by train and come back by boat. See our guide to Rhine cruises.
• On foot: the Rheinburgenweg trail on the left bank links the towns through vineyards and woods, for a full day’s hike.

Oberwesel

Oberwesel has one of the best-preserved town walls in the Rhine Valley, with many of its towers still standing. You can walk along much of the wall, between the vineyards and the river, for views over the rooftops.

The town’s landmark is the Liebfrauenkirche, the “red church”, a Gothic church with a painted interior and fine altarpieces. Above the town, Schönburg Castle is now a hotel and restaurant, and the lookout below it has one of the best views of the town and the river.

Bacharach

Bacharach is the classic Rhine wine town. Its lanes are lined with half-timbered houses, including the Altes Haus, one of the most photographed buildings on the Rhine. Wine taverns and courtyards serve local Riesling, and the town walls can be walked in part, with towers that look over the rooftops.

A path climbs from the town past the ruins of the Gothic Wernerkapelle to Burg Stahleck, a castle that is now a youth hostel. The view from its terrace over the Rhine is one of the best in the valley.

Wine and food

The steep slate slopes around both towns produce crisp Riesling. Many wineries have tasting rooms, and in late summer and autumn the towns hold wine festivals. Read our guide to Middle Rhine wine and food for what to try.

A suggested day

• Morning: ferry to St. Goar and train to Bacharach. Walk the old town and climb to Burg Stahleck.
• Lunch: a wine tavern in Bacharach.
• Afternoon: train or boat to Oberwesel. Walk the town wall and visit the Liebfrauenkirche.
• Evening: boat back past the Loreley rock to Sankt Goarshausen, or train to St. Goar and the ferry.

Tips

• Check boat times: cruise boats run less often in spring and autumn, and not at all in winter.
• See more castles: the island castle of Pfalzgrafenstein at Kaub sits in the river between the two towns. Our guide to the castles of the Middle Rhine has more ideas.
• Wear good shoes: the walls and castle paths are steep and uneven.